Tequila is an alcoholic drink made in the arid highlands of central Mexico, from fermented and distilled sap of the agave (also called a maguey), an indigenous plant (a succulent, not a cactus). Archeologists say the agave has been cultivated for at least 9,000 years. ‘Tequila wine’ was first made by the Conquistadors, who distilled a native drink called pulque into a stronger spirit. In the 400 years following the Conquest, tequila has become an icon of Mexican nationality, pride and culture, recognized worldwide. Today, most of it is made in Jalisco state around the town of Tequila.

No other drink is surrounded by as many stories, myths, legends and lore as tequila and its companion, mezcal. They transcend simple definition by reaching into the heart of Mexico, past and present. The turbulent history of Mexico is paralleled in the stories of tequila and mezcal. One cannot fully appreciate Mexico without some understanding of tequila's place in its history and culture.

The History of Tequila

The first licensed manufacturer was Jose Antonio Cuervo ("Joe Crow" of the Cuervo Montaño family), who got the rights to cultivate a parcel land from the King of Spain in 1758. He acquired this property - the hacienda Cofradia de las Animas - from Vicente de Saldivar, who was already running a small, private distillery on the land. In 1795, his son Jose Maria Cuervo got the first license to produce mezcal wine from the Crown and founded the first official Mexican distillery. His Casa Cuervo (or Taberna de Cuervo) proved very profitable. In 1812, Jose died and left his holdings to a son, Jose Ignacio, and a daughter Maria Magdalena. She married Vicente Albino Rojas - her dowry was the distillery. Vicente changed its name to 'La Rojeña' and increased production.

By mid-century Curevo's fields had more than three million agave plants. He died before the railroads were built into the area and Jesus Flores took over the distillery. Cuervo was the first distiller to put tequila into bottles - pioneered by owner Flores - in the late 19th century when others were still using barrels. His first bottled tequila was sold in 1906. At the same time, he moved Cuervo to a new, larger site called La Constancia, to take advantage of the transportation network the new railroad offered. By 1880, Cuervo was selling 10,000 barrels of its tequila in Guadalajara alone. In 1900, after Flores had died, his widow married the administrator, Jose Cuervo Labastida, and soon the product became known as 'Jose Cuervo,' and the taberna returned to its original name. The plantations had four million plants growing. Today Cuervo - its plant is still called La Rojeña - is the largest manufacturer of tequila, with a huge export market.

Types of Tequila

There are two categories and four official types of Tequila:

Tequila 100% Agave:  Must be made with 100% blue agave juices and must be bottled at a distillery in Mexico. It may be Blanco, Reposado, or Añejo (see below).

Tequila:  Must be made with at least 51% blue agave juices. This tequila may be exported in bulk to be bottled in other countries following the NOM standard. It may be Blanco, Gold, Reposado, or Añejo (see below).

• Silver (blanco or plata): Bottled immediately after distillation, or within 60 days. May be stored in stainless steel tanks, but never on wood.
• Rested (reposado): Tequila aged in oak barrels for between two and 12 months before bottling.
• Aged (añejo): Tequila stored and aged in oak barrels for more than a year before being bottled.
• Gold (oro, suave, joven, joven abocado): Basically the same as blanco, but with colouring and flavouring ingredients added to make it look aged. Also called gold because of its colouring (usually through added caramel and sometimes oak essence, up to 1% total weight). Generally mixto tequilas.

Tequila Myths

Tequila Myth #1 - There's a worm in tequila.

There is no worm in Mexican-bottled tequila. Yes, some American-bottled brand(s) put one in their bottle to impress the gringos and boost sales, but it's only a marketing ploy and not a Mexican tradition. There is a worm - called a gusano, properly a butterfly caterpillar (Hipopta Agavis) - in some types of mezcal (but not all). You may also get a small bag of 'worm salt' - dried gusano, salt and chile powder tied to a mezcal bottle.

Tequila Myth #2 - Tequila is made from cactus.

Tequila is made from distilled sap from hearts (piñas) of the agave or maguey (pr. 'mah-gay') plant. This plant is actually related to the lily and amaryllis (it has its own genus, Agave). It is known as a succulent and, although it shares a common habitat with many cacti, it is not one itself and has a different life cycle. A mature agave has leaves 5-8 feet tall, and is 7-12 feet in diameter. It has a lifespan of 8-15 years, depending on species, growing conditions and climate. The name agave comes from the Greek word for 'noble.'

Tequila Myth #3 - Tequila and mezcal are the same thing.

Technically, tequila is a type of mezcal, but mezcals are not tequilas. They both derive from varieties of the plant known to the natives as 'mexcalmetl.' Although they have many similarities, tequila and mezcal are as different today as scotch and rye. Tequila is made from only agave tequilana Weber, blue variety. Mezcal, on the other hand, can be made from five different varieties of agave - mostly espadin, but including some wild varieties grown without pesticides.

Tequila Myth #4 - Tequila is only bottled homebrew.

Tequila manufacture is tightly controlled by the Mexican government and the Tequila Regulatory Council. Statements made on the bottle about age, style and content have legal requirements. There is also a non-profit council called the Chamber of Tequila Producers which regulates the industry.